Chapter 4: Sashiko in modern fashion and home décor

This article/chapter was part of an eBook project for a client.

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Sashiko may have its roots in ancient Japan, but it has also gracefully fused itself with modern fashion. Simple yet captivating geometric patterns look great on modern clothing too – shirts, sweaters, and denim fashionwear.

The visual appeal of interwoven sashiko patterns also merges beautifully with home décor items such as table runners, napkins, pillow covers, and quilts.

This versatile nature of sashiko embroidery is mostly due to its simplicity. At the core, it’s just a basic repetition of a particular shape or motif. That’s why it can easily complement fabrics and materials of any type and color.

Although traditional sashiko embroidery is done on indigo-dyed fabric, modern fashion can make exceptions with fabric choices. When fusing Sashiko with fashion, the focus is to blend the two styles naturally, without reinforcing the traditional principles of Sashiko art.

5 elements of sashiko that enhances modern fashion

Sashiko may not be a fashion statement in the west, but it has gained popularity in many countries beyond Japan. Yes, it’s pleasing to the eye, and the patterns could go nicely on t-shirts, pants or backpacks. But aesthetics isn’t the only factor. Other subtle underlying factors also enrich the beauty and charm of Sashiko designs.

Contrast

The traditional formula for sashiko uses white cotton stitches on indigo-dyed fabric. This combination of white and indigo creates a striking bright and dark contrast that truly brings the attention of the viewer on the shapes and patterns.

Even if the exact combination of white and indigo isn’t used, the color contrast between the stitches and the background should still be maintained.

Symmetry

The shapes and motifs in Sashiko are usually symmetrical. And symmetry is often perceived as a pleasant visual effect. Even when some patterns are not exactly symmetrical, such as clouds, waves or leaves, the repetitive nature of Sashiko designs automatically add a sense of symmetry and balance.

Attention to details

Even though one may not notice on first sight, there is incredible attention to details in sashiko patterns.
For example, in the Kogin-zashi technique used in Tsugaru sashiko, the stitches are always either 1, 3 or 5 grids long. And the stitch lines are shifted by 1 grid along the pattern. While in the Hishi-zashi patterns used in Nanbu sashiko, the stitches are always 2, 4 or 6 grids long, with a 2-grid shift between lines.

Subtle details like these create a pleasing effect in the viewer’s mind.

Dimensional layers

As with most types of stitched embroideries, sashiko designs have layered visuals, with the patterns that seem to bulge or pop out of the fabric, creating a subtle three-dimensional effect.

Textures

Sashiko embroidery uses special type of ‘sashiko thread’ that is made of pure cotton and is tightly twisted. It has a heavier feel and doesn’t separate into individual strands. The texture of Sashiko threads further enhance the appearance of patterns.

Sashiko originated out of financial necessity in older times, fueled by the high value of fabric in Japan during that era. And we can’t say for certain if the pioneers of sashiko patterns intentionally included these aesthetic elements or it was simply a coincidence.

What we can confirm is that sashiko patterns look beautiful even in current times with modern clothing trends, due to a mixture of these five elements – contrast, symmetry, minute details, dimensional layers, and thick textures.

The Appeal of Sashiko in Modern Fashion

Beyond the patterns and aesthetics, Sashiko’s popularity in recent times can also be credited to these additional factors.

Sustainability

During its early days, the art of Sashiko was also grounded in practicality and reusability of apparels. As such, even today, it serves as an innovative method of recycling or upcycling old worn-out clothes. Not just fashion and clothing - even torn or battered home décor items like quilts and cushion covers, can be revived with Sashiko embroidery.

Bits and pieces of older clothes stitched together can turn old garments and items into entirely new apparels. With sustainable fashion gaining popularity as a trend, Sashiko embroidered apparels fit right into that category. An excellent way for eco-friendly fashion lovers to promote sustainable clothing.

Cultural appreciation

The history and origin of Sashiko is an integral part of Japanese culture. And given the fascination of westerners with Japanese culture, it’s natural for many foreigners to be enamored by Sashiko art styles.

Versatility

Versatility is another amazing aspect of sashiko embroidery. The patterns blend wonderfully with all kinds of clothing and home décor items from shirts, pants and jackets to blankets, towels and napkins. You can even experiment with Sashiko on shoes!

Hand-crafted

Sashiko is a minimalistic fashion trend that people can pick up at home. You don’t need to buy professionally designed sashiko clothing. It’s possible to make one for yourself. Buying the necessary items like a set of sashiko thread and needles is the only pre-requisite.

So, it can be your next DIY fashion project to keep you engaged in the craft, and eventually reward you with a recycled garment that’s good as new, or even better!

Affordability

Unlike designer clothes and apparels from popular brands, sashiko is an affordable fashion trend. A small investment in the aforementioned needles and thread set is all you need to bring life to your old clothes.

Upgrading Your Wardrobe with Sashiko

So after all this talk about fusing Sashiko into modern fashion, let’s look at some ways to practically bring the beauty of Sashiko into your wardrobe items.

Boro style: Patterns + Patches

The term ‘boro’ comes from the Japanese word ‘boroboro’, which means something tattered that has been repaired or mended. As we already learned in the history of sashiko, the practice of wearing patched up clothes was more of a necessity, but nowadays, it has also become a fashion trend. Two strong reasons for the popularity of boro style in modern fashion is uniqueness and authenticity.

Such clothes with mending stitches and patchworks have a unique appearance not found in other styles of clothing. When combined with sashiko patterns, what you get is a truly one-of-a-kind apparel!

Denim style: Rugged Aesthetics

Denim jeans and jackets tend to wear and tear after prolonged use. Many people prefer to preserve denim clothes, as it’s a high-demand and expensive fabric. So quite similar to the origin of sashiko, even today, people still use it as a means to make old denim clothes last longer.

Of course, there’s nothing stopping you from stitching sashiko patterns on brand new denims. But I’d say enjoy your original denim clothes till they last, and only start experimenting as they gradually deteriorate.

You can start by adding small patches and stitches in tattered areas and slowly expand as the natural wear and tear occurs. It’s also fun to have different versions of the same denim apparel over time.

DIY fashion

Another means of implementing sashiko in modern fashion is to add your own creativity and come up with new styles. For example, thick fabric clothes like sweaters with little to no design or prints on them can benefit from the additional touch of sashiko patterns.

There’s no limit to creativity in DIY fashion and the same goes for Sashiko patterns and motifs. But you should still maintain two core aspects of the art style, such as:

• The contrast between the color of the fabric and the thread.
• Minimalism in design (don’t overdo the patterns).

Also, even for casual DIY projects, using the right tools – special sashiko threads and needles – is recommended. You might also want a thimble for finger protection.

Sashiko with Japanese Clothing

Even within Japan, Sashiko is popular among the younger demographics too. Here are some of the common clothing options in Japan which blend well with Sashiko designs.

Hanten and Haori

Both hanten and haori are traditional Japanese coats or jackets. They were commonly worn by manual workers like fishermen and farmers, but have become fashionable and stylish apparels these days.

The two are quite similar in terms of design:

• A wide opening at the front that can be tied with laces.
• The sleeves are also wide and a bit short, usually ending right above the wrist.
• The entire length of the jacket ends slightly above the knee.

The difference between the two is that hanten is thick and warm, mainly designed to be worn in cold weather and winters, while haori is thinner and lighter, and works well as an outer layer in moderate weather.

Tobi pants

Tobi pants are wide and baggy trousers commonly worn by construction workers in Japan.

They can also be styled as loose-fitting, casual, and comfortable fashionwear. The legs reach their maximum width slightly above the ankle, then taper tightly at the bottom. Tobi pants are lightweight and cool so they’re perfect for summer fashion.

Gakuran

Gakuran is actually a common school uniform for Japanese students. It’s a tight fit jacket that is usually buttoned up and has an upright collar. Not only students but even some professionals wear it as a uniform or formal attire. Young people in Japan also enjoy wearing it as a fashion item, often styling it as a sleek jacket or blazer.

As a school uniform, Gakuran is worn by both boys and girls. When used as a fashion clothing, it’s more common among males.

Samue and Jinbei

Samue and Jinbei are both two-piece shirt and pant sets. Samue has a long sleeve shirt and full length trouser, whereas Jinbei is made of short sleeved shirt and half pants.

While worn by both men and women, they are more commonly associated with men. The simplicity of these clothes also serves a statement of minimalist fashion, which is a key element of Sashiko style as well.

Sashiko for Shoes

The application of sashiko embroidery in modern fashion isn’t just limited to clothes, but it can also be applied to shoes. It’s not commercially widespread, so you won’t easily find a plethora of sashiko-styled shoes. But if you know your way with a needle and thread, you can add a unique touch to your shoes by adding sashiko patterns. Shoes made of textile, fabric, or denim are perfect for stitching sashiko designs.

Did you know?

Even Nike has experimented with the concept of Sashiko. They once released a limited edition custom design – the Nike SB Dunk ‘Sashiko’ – which featured the signature style of sashiko embroidery with running stitches used for the Nike pattern and small geometric shapes.

Sashiko Designs in Home Décor Items

Many home décor items can be adorned with sashiko patterns to improve the aesthetics of your interior living space.

When used in household fabrics, the traditional, vintage style of sashiko resonates through the home and creates a peaceful, tranquil ambience. Here are some of the fabrics and household items where sashiko embroidery can be added:

Blankets and quilts

Sashiko patterns can be used to adorn as well as mend blankets and quilts with a wide variety of patterns. The one-stitch sashiko technique, also called hitomezashi, is particularly suitable for quilts. Along with the beautiful visuals, it also reinforces the material for prolonged use and durability.

Table runners

The simple repetition of geometric shapes like diamonds, stars, and polygons looks beautiful on table runners. It’s also common to stich patterns only at the edges and keep the center space vacant.

Pillow and cushion cover

Geometric shapes, flower-based designs, and the Seigaha and Nowaki patterns are perfect for pillow and cushion covers. Particularly for cushion covers, an external border can be stitched on with the design enclosed inside the borders for a compact effect.

Carpets and rugs

Another accessory where the Seigaha pattern fits perfectly is carpets and rugs. Asanoha, Tobi Asanoha, and Shippo-tsunagi patterns are also suitable for large carpets due to their perfectly balanced symmetry.

Towels and napkins

On towels and napkins, it’s better to stitch the sashiko patterns along the edges, rather than covering the entire surface. Patterns with curved shapes look better on the edges than those with straight lines, such as Fundo-tsunagi, Hoshiami, or Hazanshi.

Tapestries

Due to the large size of tapestries, just about any sashiko design will be a great addition. Wall tapestries are also used sparingly, with only one or two hanging in select areas of the house, so they really stand out in home décor and bring a lot of focus on the sashiko designs.

Tips to Enhance Home Décor with Sashiko

There are many ways to integrate sashiko inspired fabrics in your home. Obviously, there’s no right or wrong method and it’s all about creativity and preference. But if you need inspiration for creative ways to uplift ambience of your home with sashiko, here are some interesting ideas:

Creating focal points

Sashiko patterns can be used to create striking focal points in certain rooms and spaces of your home. Wall tapestries with sashiko designs are perfect for this purpose because they easily become the highlight of any room. Seigaha and Nowaki Grass are two patterns that work exceptionally well with tapestries if you prefer simple, repetitive designs.

Maintaining minimalism

You’ve heard the word ‘minimalism’ countless times now, but I’ll still have to reiterate this. After all, it’s one of the core essences of Sashiko art style. For minimalism, consider placing Sashiko inspired items in sparsely furnished and decluttered rooms. Decorations placed in cluttered rooms tend to fade into the background.

Decorating personal space

Sashiko designs are a great addition to personal spaces. Once again, you can consider sashiko tapestries and smaller wall hangings to be placed in personal rooms. Sashiko quilts, bedsheets, and pillow covers will also be unique accessories for your bedroom. Other options to add sashiko to your personal room include small covers for bedside rugs and tables. You can also keep up with consistent color schemes, whether it’s the classic indigo or any other color of your choice.

Sashiko-inspired guest room

Similar to personal spaces, Sashiko designs can adorn the living space for your guests and visitors too. That includes carpets and rugs for flooring, bedsheets, pillow covers, and quilts for sleeping area, covers on bedside tables, and you can also add sashiko prints on guest towels.

The traditional touch and serene atmosphere will create a pleasant experience for your guests. But, considering our earlier tips for focal point and minimalism, you’d want to follow the same here. Don’t stuff a bunch of Sashiko embroidered items all over the place.

Contrasting color schemes

Again, we come back to the recurring idea of contrasting colors in Sashiko.

You can choose a specific room or interior space in your house where a contrasting theme can be applied for bold and striking visuals. If you want to stay true to the originality of sashiko, then of course, indigo is the best choice for the dark color.

But no matter what you choose, your primary dark color should be dominant, with small additions of the secondary, lighter color. The dominant color should occupy larger spaces, for example on bedsheets, carpets and tapestries. And complementing colors like beige or gray should be in smaller sections like pillow and cushion covers.

Conclusion

Sashiko is a simple art style on the surface. But beneath that top layer, it has many intricate aspects which gel together to make the designs easy on the eyes.

In modern fashion, Sashiko artfully combines sustainability, practicality, simplicity, versatility, and of course, aesthetics. But at the end of the day, it’s also a hands-on skill and a wonderful hobby.

So, while I do appreciate you sticking with me till the end of this chapter, I now urge you to put the theory aside, bring out your Sashiko threads and needles, and start stitching away.

And remember, it doesn’t have to be perfect! Don’t forget the wabi-sabi philosophy – there is beauty even in imperfection!